<
www.flickr.com
>

Friday, July 04, 2008

building a solid foundation

Cement: necessary, heavy, and super rare here in Benin. On the scale of commodities, it’s right up there with rice as all buildings here are made inside and out with it. The Guinagourou library is being constructed with 4 tons of cement. That’s 20 packets per ton, 80.000 cfa per ton, that’s about $175. It was 70.000 but the price went up last week, no one can seem to tell me why. I tried a supplier in Cotonou but they only dealt with people buying 40 tons or more…I think I’ll hold back until my next project to go that big. The chief of something or other wrote me a letter explaining the situation to the person in charge in Parakou. Oddly, though this was the most sure looking contact, they have provided nothing and actually pointed me towards another supplier. The cement shortage has been around for at least a decade or at least that’s what the people tell me who are also waiting in line. They reminisce about the good ol’ days when there was such a surplus they couldn’t give it away. David and I found our first ton through a friend who inflated the price to 90.000 and on top of that we have to pay another 10.000/ton to transport the stuff by taxi the 50 kilometers to village. At this point I was leaving for the states and all money I had to front for the project was gone. I told David to just do what he can and we’ll have to see what happens when I get back. If there was ever someone who could manage and just get by, it’s David. That man knows how to call in favors like no one else I know. Once I got back from the states, I had all of 10 hours to go to my village, give out gifts, and get myself back in to Parakou for Camp GLOW (more to come on that). Didn’t even get to see David because he was in Burkina Faso at a Moringa conference so he actually got back a few days later than me. I gave him the biggest hug ever when he finally showed up at the workstation, I really missed that guy! He let me know the foundation was all set and we just need more cement; like every single other person in my village hadn’t let me know already. It’s cool to see people psyched, though I don’t know if it’s because I’m just building a building or because of what it will be. Throughout the Camp GLOW, (june 22-29) I made runs to the cement depot. The first time was quite the experience. Got there at 7am ready to throw elbows to get a place in line. Turns out that’s exactly what happens. Word got around that the white girl was buying not just one packet but 4 tons and I was sent around back to talk to the head honcho to see what we could do about it. I got sent back and forth about 5 times and finally they just said we’d wait until the truck comes. The semi truck schedules are never certain so it’s a constant waiting game. I headed to the front of the building and sat down. The truck rolled up and people literally flew into spots in lines, one for women, one for men. Apparently they sell 1 packet at a time at the front of the store so I was at a loss. One of the packet movers let me know I should just stay around back with the other people buying bulk and wait there. To be honest, I was staring in amazement at the madness ensuing due to the truck’s arrival. It seemed people were so terrified to loss their spot in line that they were smashing themselves up against one another and jockeying for the best position, even though that’s not really how a line works… Other onlookers were impressed by the show too. One guy (who is Beninese) said with a snicker “africans man, they will never change” and promptly threw himself into the mayhem. In my experience, this is how the bank works, the market, any store, the taxi stations, and apparently cement depots. The truck needed to be unloaded so the lines dispersed and we waited in the baking sun for a few more hours. I took a nap leaning against the building and was awoken by another stampede. Not needing a second viewing, I strolled around back to see what wee were doing about the bulk buyers. The people who’d been there at 7am and properly greeted the head guy, each got tickets saying how much we were allotted. 1 ton was the most anyone was allowed so I took my ticket and emerged to the front pay window feeling triumphant. By now everyone knew what I was doing because that’s what you talk about standing in line, how much cement and what you’ll do with it. I even got a couple high fives. I paid, and considerably less than the man in front of me buying the exact same amount…not sure what that was all about. David had called one of our taxi guys and they came and picked it up no problems. This whole ordeal took about 5 hours. Now I had 2 tons and we need 4. They took my phone number and later in the week, after yet another fruitless trip there and back, seeing no semi-truck, they called me. This time was much smoother; I walked up to the back door and paid. The boss also asked me for some American whiskey so we joked about it but I’m pretty sure I’m supposed to bring home a bottle of Johnny Walker the next time I go. That leaves us with 1 ton to find and I’m feeling pretty good about it. I go back today and pay the people who’ve worked for us on credit and we’ll keep looking for that last ton. So, that’s where we are with the library. Rain is here in full force so I’m curious to see how we’ll proceed, but we WILL proceed.

2 Comments:

Anonymous Anonymous said...

Thanks for writing this.

7:20 AM  
Blogger heidi haugen: days with clay said...

hi rachel. a friend of mine was peace corps in benin about 6-7 years ago..he is now with usaid in afghanistan. i'll ask him about the cement :)
well done.
heidi haugen (clay friend of your mama)

7:46 AM  

Post a Comment

<< Home